November.
Late fall · Zone 6b · Hunterdon County, NJ
“Ice in November brings mud in December.”
Old farmer’s saying
- Sun ↑
- 6:40
- Sun ↓
- 4:40
- Day
- 10h 00m
- High
- 54°
- Low
- 36°
- Moon
- Beaver Moon
Ground firming
Winterizing and bed care. Finish planting garlic and spring bulbs. Mulch perennials once ground is frozen an inch deep. Cole crops still harvestable.
General chores.
November is the closing shift. The ground is starting to freeze; the cole crops are still coming out; garlic that didn't get in during October has one last chance. Every task now is either winterizing what stays or setting up what you'll do in January. When this month is finished, the garden goes quiet.
“Apply protective mulch after ground freezes.”
Wait until the top inch of soil is frozen — mulching too early attracts voles looking for warmth. Once frozen, 2–4 inches of straw or shredded leaves keeps the soil steadily cold instead of freezing and thawing.
Winterize the beds
Remove dead plants from the vegetable garden
Overwintering squash bugs, cucumber beetles, and disease spores need somewhere to hide. Clearing dead material breaks the cycle.
Continue raking and shredding leaves
Shredded leaves are compost gold. Whole leaves mat down and smother lawns. Mow over piles before spreading.
Spread manure, straw, and shredded leaves; fork under
Compost the beds now so winter freeze-thaw cycles work it in. By April, the topsoil is enriched without any spring work.
Winterize the tools and equipment
Oil and store gas-powered equipment
Fuel stabilizer in the tank, an oil change if it's due, sharp blades stored dry. Come spring, the mower starts on the first pull.
Bring in hoses and close outdoor faucets
A hose left connected can hold water back into the house line. Disconnect at the tap, drain the hose, close the shutoff valve inside.
Store stone and terracotta pottery
Trapped water freezes and cracks stone. Store indoors, or at minimum flip upside-down to shed water and cover with a tarp.
Setting up next year already
Order seed catalogs
Catalogs arrive December through February. Get on the list now for Baker Creek, Fedco, Johnny's, Southern Exposure — the ones that sell out first.
Set out bird feeders
Winter birds forage the same route daily. Establish the feeders now and they'll be regulars all season, eating aphids and cabbage worms next year.
The build season — new beds, fences, gates
Build new raised beds while ground is still workable
November is the ideal window for adding beds: soil digs easily, nothing is growing to disturb, and if you build now the frames settle over winter with compost and cover crop working in. Rush this in spring and you're planting in raw soil.
Build or repair the garden fence
Deer, rabbits, groundhogs — all easier to fence out before they're active again in April. Postholes dig easily now, the garden is empty, and you can work without stepping on plants. Any month between November and February works; sooner is better.
Install a proper gate and hardware
Winter is when gates rot, sag, and freeze shut. Rebuild or upgrade the gate now: solid hinges, a real latch, a rabbit-proof bottom rail. You'll have a working entrance the day you need it in March.
Plant & sow.
What can go in the ground now — and what still needs to wait. Start dates for indoor sowing, direct sowing, and transplanting, broken out by vegetables, herbs, and flowers.
“Garlic — finish planting if not done in October.”
Vegetables
Spring bulbs — last chance to plant tulips, daffodils if not done
Cole crops still harvestable: kale, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, broccoli — frost makes them sweeter
Root vegetables under straw can continue to be harvested through late November
Flowers
Plant spring bulbs (tulips, daffodils) — last chance
Wrap young/tender tree trunks and multi-stemmed shrubs with wire cage against rabbit browse
Empty, clean, and store planters and pottery
If soil is frozen 1"+ thick, begin applying protective mulch to flower beds
Orchard & berries.
The orchard and the berry patch keep their own calendar. Apples, pears, peaches, brambles, blueberries, and grapes — pruning, spraying, planting, and harvest, in the rhythm they ask for.
“Wrap new tree trunks to prevent rabbit and rodent damage.”
Cage blueberries to keep rabbits away
Mow around trees to chop leaves and reduce pest habitat
Spray fungicide on peaches for leaf curl (after leaf drop)
Aerate soil and add compost around fruit tree drip-lines
Mulch strawberry plants with 2–3" straw after hard freeze
Can & preserve.
What to put by while it's here — canned, frozen, fermented, or dried. Pressure-can low-acid vegetables; water-bath the high-acid ones. Freezer and dehydrator for everything in between.
“Pumpkin sauce, pickled mushrooms.”
Citrus marmalades and curds (store-bought citrus at its best)
Organize pantry; label all jars with contents and date
Check stored roots and fruits in root cellar weekly; remove any going bad
Coming next
December
Clean garden tools with wire brush; apply light coat of oil; sharpen hoe and spade edges; sand and oil handles
Drain fuel tanks from lawn mower/tiller
Apply final mulch layer to all planting beds, especially around perennials
Look ahead →
Just past
October
Watch weather forecasts; cover beds on frost nights with row cover
Harvest all frost-sensitive crops before hard freeze: beans, eggplant, peppers, tomatoes
Clean up diseased plants from vegetable garden entirely — do not compost
← Look back
More on the almanac.
- T
Transplanting week, and everything at once.
The greenhouse is empty, the beds are full, and I have exactly three days before rain. The cold-season crops go in.
- T
The seed order comes in.
A cold Saturday, a stack of catalogs, and the annual argument with myself about how many tomato varieties is too many.



