Cider-Spiced Apple Butter.

What you'll need

Ingredients.

• 4 lbs

  tart apples (Granny Smith), peeled, cored, cut into 1-inch chunks

• 1 lb

  sweet-aromatic apples (Honeycrisp, Fuji, or Gala), peeled, cored, cut into 1-inch chunks

• 1½ cups

  apple cider (unfiltered if you can get it), plus more as needed

• 1 cup

  packed dark brown sugar

• ½ cup

  granulated sugar

• ⅓ cup

  pure maple syrup

• 1 tablespoon

  apple cider vinegar

• 1 tablespoon

  fresh lemon juice

• 1 tablespoon

  finely grated fresh ginger

• 2 teaspoons

  ground cinnamon

• ½ teaspoon

  ground cardamom

• ½ teaspoon

  freshly grated nutmeg

• ¼ teaspoon

  ground allspice

• ⅛ teaspoon

  ground cloves

• ¼ teaspoon

  fine sea salt

• 1 teaspoon

  vanilla extract (stirred in at the end)

In the kitchen

Equipment.

• Heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or stockpot (or a 6-quart slow cooker)
• Immersion blender (or a standing blender, working in batches)
• Wooden spoon or heatproof spatula
• Ladle and a wide-mouth funnel
• Clean, sterilized jars with new lids and bands
• Jar lifter and water-bath canner (only if canning)

How it's made

Stovetop.

1. 1

   Soften the fruit. Combine both kinds of apples with the apple cider in your Dutch oven. Cover and simmer over medium-low for 18–20 minutes, stirring now and then, until the chunks collapse when pressed with a spoon.

2. 2

   Blend smooth. Turn off the heat and purée directly in the pot with an immersion blender until glossy and completely smooth. You should have roughly 8 cups of purée; if you're a cup or two over, that's fine — just know the finished batch will run a little larger.

3. 3

   Sweeten and spice. Stir in the brown sugar, granulated sugar, maple syrup, cider vinegar, lemon juice, fresh ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, allspice, cloves, and salt. Return to a bare simmer over low heat.

4. 4

   Reduce low and slow. Cook uncovered 45–75 minutes, stirring frequently and scraping the bottom so nothing scorches. As it thickens it will spit, so partially cover with the lid ajar and lower the heat if needed. The butter is ready when it has darkened to a deep russet-brown and mounds on the spoon.

5. 5

   Cold-plate test. Drop a spoonful onto a chilled plate. If no ring of liquid weeps out around the edge and the mound holds its shape, it's done. If it's still loose, keep reducing in 10-minute stretches.

6. 6

   Finish. Off the heat, stir in the vanilla. Taste and adjust — a little more salt sharpens the spice; a squeeze more lemon brightens an overly sweet batch.

How it's made

Slow Cooker.

1. 1

   Add both kinds of apples, the cider, sugars, maple syrup, vinegar, lemon, ginger, and all the spices and salt to the slow cooker. (You can skip peeling here — the blender handles the skins.)

2. 2

   Cover and cook on LOW for 9–10 hours, until the apples are jammy and beginning to darken.

3. 3

   Purée smooth with an immersion blender right in the crock.

4. 4

   Prop the lid open with a wooden spoon, switch to HIGH, and cook 2–4 hours more, stirring occasionally, until thick and deeply colored. Stir in the vanilla at the very end.

Preserving

Water-Bath Canning (optional).

1. 1

   Bring your canner to a boil and keep the ladled butter hot.

2. 2

   Fill sterilized jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Slide a chopstick around the inside to release air bubbles, wipe the rims clean, set the lids, and screw the bands to fingertip-tight.

3. 3

   Lower the jars into the boiling water so at least 1 inch covers the tops. Process pints (or smaller) for 10 minutes, adding time for altitude above 1,000 feet.

4. 4

   Cut the heat and let the jars rest 5 minutes before lifting them onto a towel. Leave undisturbed 12 hours.

5. 5

   Press the center of each lid — a sealed lid won't flex. Refrigerate any that didn't seal and use those first. Remove the bands before storing so you don't get a false seal.

From the cook

Notes & Tips.

• Why the apple blend

  all-tart apples give you structure but can taste flat; folding in a pound of a sweet, floral variety rounds the whole thing out without extra sugar.

• Cider over water

  simmering in cider instead of plain water means you're not diluting the apples — you're doubling down on them.

• Control the color

  the longer and lower you cook it, the darker and more caramelized it gets. Stop early for a bright, fruity spread; push it further for a bittersweet, almost molasses-edged butter.

• No butter involved

  despite the name, there's no dairy here — "butter" just describes the silky, spreadable texture.

• Great on

  warm biscuits, sharp cheddar, oatmeal, pork, or swirled into plain yogurt.